It seems that time passes quite differently on a boat. I did
bring along a watch, but I stopped wearing it sometime in the first week of our
trip. No rehearsals to attend, no appointments to keep – heaven. Rick has
needed to pay more attention to the time because of the tides – not paying
attention could easily screw up his navigation efforts – and we sort of decide
together where we are going next, but mostly we just let each day pass without
trying to insert too much of a schedule.
For Rick, each day begins with a cup of coffee and then
usually some time spent at his navigation station/desk doing something on his
computer. He looks at the weather forecast and the tide schedule, and then
figures out where we might take the boat to our next stop. After that he likes
to spend some time working, answering emails and writing. This is his time to
really get somewhere on his latest book project and he needs to be pretty much
left alone to concentrate. When we are at home in Baltimore he has a study on
the third floor of our house where he can close the door to me and the rest of
the world, but here on the boat it’s a bit more difficult.
My day starts a little differently; I pretty much wake up
talking. I’ve always been a morning person, finding coffee totally unnecessary.
While Rick is trying to work I putter around the galley, cleaning up, making
breakfast, chatting away. Then I get on the computer myself and give a running commentary
of the latest news and gossip. Rick has had to ask for a moratorium on talking
while he’s working and I mostly remember, but it’s really hard. I try to
visualize “the cone of silence” from Get Smart. I have had to bring along a
number of things to do, since I knew this was going to be part of our daily
routine. I read, blog, sew, all things I never seem to have enough time to do
at home. One would think that getting internet on a boat would be a big problem,
but not in these modern times. Our cell phones work almost everywhere, even quite
a ways off shore, and Rick’s Iphone is set up as a “hotspot”, acting like a
wifi and allowing simultaneous connections from both of our computers. We are
somewhat limited by our battery power though
- the more actual sailing we do, the less we run the engine and that
means we have less electricity to run all of our little gadgets. It’s a good
thing I brought a hand powered sewing machine!
After a couple of hours of “quiet time”, we usually ready
the boat and up anchor for a new destination. The traveling part of the day can
be fun and exciting, but it can also be kind of boring depending on the weather
and the scenery. It’s always interesting to go through a canal because there
are lots of other boats around, and often people on the sides to look at. Wide
open expanses of water have a very relaxing effect. Sometimes we go for hours
with nothing new on the horizon. That’s usually when I fall asleep.
When we’re underway, Rick most often has the boat set up
with either the auto-helm or the wind-vane. Both of these devices are
self-steering aids that set the boat on a specific course and keep it there
until you change it. The auto-helm is run on electricity (more battery power),
while the wind-vane uses the wind to hold the boat steady. The auto-helm makes
more sense to me – the wind vane looks like a Rube Goldberg contraption – but Rick
seems to understand both of them very well and utilizes them quite a bit. When
either self-steering method is used, you still have to look out for other boats
or large buoys, but you are pretty much free to wander about the boat and do
whatever you like.
The Monitor Wind Vane |
Even with the steering taken care of Rick likes to stay on
deck, scoping the water for sea life. He alerts me whenever he sees anything
interesting, and I scramble about, grabbing the camera. Taking seascape pictures
from a boat is really quite easy with a good digital camera; you pretty much
point and shoot. The camera does all the work. Capturing wildlife from a boat
though is an entirely different matter. The subject of your photo is a moving
target, spending only a second or two above water or else very briefly perched
somewhere. You and your boat are of course also moving, and on a day with big
waves you are moving a lot. I have gained a whole new appreciation for those
guys at the National Geographic. I was able to get some very ill composed dolphin
photos a few weeks back, and yesterday we spotted some very far off whales that
photographically look like black lumps and a puff of spray. In two summers of
sailing I have seen many, many seals, yet I only have ONE very blurry, unrecognizable
photo to show for it.
Meals aboard the boat are of course limited to whatever we’ve
managed to bring with us, but we have a surprising amount of variety in our
diet. In fact, sometimes we are able to come up with meals that I think are
positively gourmet! The other day we had a dinner of grilled pork tenderloin
with a watermelon/feta salad that we could have served to the most discerning
of guests. Our lunches are a bit more mundane – hot dogs, liverwurst
sandwiches, leftovers from dinner, etc – and are usually prepared while
underway. I have to say though, even a tuna sandwich tastes extra special when
enjoyed on a boat. The stove is gimbaled – that’s when something pivots in
order to rock with the motion of the boat – so we can cook even in the worst
weather.
We’ve been through a few storms now, mostly in the evenings,
and they can be pretty exciting. The other day in South Dartmouth we had a nice
front blow through and decided to stay on a mooring there and ride it out on
the boat. We saw a couple of young fellows heading out in a small racing
sailboat, and wondered what they were doing with a storm about to hit. They
were looking the other way, so maybe they didn’t see that half the sky was
black?!! A bit later we saw them coming back, apparently frantically searching
for their mooring ball. With no engine on their boat they were forced to use
the now screaming wind to move their sails along, and they had to keep tacking
between all the other boats in the mooring field. We finally saw them
struggling to take down their sails, but the wind was too strong and their mast
broke in two! A police boat came blasting out into the field to get them and we
watched it head more slowly back to the docks, towing the ailing boat behind.
We speculated that the fellow in that sailboat was a kid trying to show off to
his friend in his father’s fancy racing vessel. I don’t think Daddy’s going to
be very happy!
In the evenings we usually head in and anchor somewhere,
sometimes in a port city but usually in some little picturesque natural spot. My
favorite part of our routine last year was the cocktail hour, usually spent on
the foredeck. We would sit up there with our captains’ chairs and some snacks
and watch the end of the sun, sometimes still in transit and sometimes at
anchor. I hadn’t really realized until now, but that part of our routine has
sort of fallen away. We’ve had better weather for sailing this year – more wind
– and with the boat heeled over amid lots of deep waves, it’s not that inviting
to be sitting on the foredeck. Rick would also like to suggest that the reason
for our loss of the cocktail hour is that we’ve been drinking all day, so why
bother? I’m sure that’s not true. Well, pretty sure…
We finally have begun our regular duet playing sessions
which usually happen sometime around that now defunct cocktail hour. We got off
to a late start this year with our music making, I think for several reasons.
First of all, there were so many things going wrong with the boat that Rick was
spending practically every spare moment working his magic and fixing things and
there wasn’t a lot of energy left for violin/viola playing. Many people may not
realize that playing an instrument requires a great deal of mental effort, even
when playing for fun. The other main reason for our musical lethargy is much less
forgivable; we have a really great stereo on the boat. How much easier it is to
push a button and have wonderful performances of great music right in your
living room! Or in our case, the cabin or cockpit. How demoralizing to pull out
your fiddle and not sound like one of those recordings! It took us a few
practice sessions to get our fingers moving properly again – and also to come
to terms with lowered expectations – but now we’re in the groove and making our
own music once more.
Going ashore is something we do to break up the regular
routine. We went in for breakfast in Cuttyhunk, and although the meal was
delightful, I actually got a little sea-sick just from being on land. Leave it
to me to have something like that happen; now that I’m used to living on a boat
I get sick by landing on terra firma.
We most often go in for dinner when we go
ashore, but this last week we decided to visit the Whaling Museum in New Bedford,
MA, and we spent the day there. New Bedford is obviously struggling
financially, but the museum is top-notch. The focus of the museum is a bit
schizoid in that half of the place is devoted to the glorification of the whaling
industry, while the other half is devoted to education about whales and whale
conservation, but I enjoyed it nevertheless. I particularly liked learning
about a certain whaling ship, the “Rebecca”!
We’ve had a number of great sailing days this past week and
are making steady progress up the coast toward Maine. We’ve decided that the
wind will be better tomorrow and the next day for our last few stops up to
Portland, so we’re taking the day off to rest and recuperate here in Gloucester.
We’re mainly following our usual routine – writing, reading, napping, etc. –
but I think I’m going to insist on the reinstitution of our cocktail hour. Cheers!
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